Farming and ranching have long been the backbone of Wyoming’s way of life. Unfortunately, over the years, the small family farms and ranches have been disappearing from the landscape and small food producers have struggled to make a living.
When it comes to supporting the smaller food producers, Fremont County has it going on. Two year-round farmers markets and several seasonal markets offer a wide range of options in the area.
Year-round markets
The Saturday Market has been in operation for 25 years, and is ideal for those vendors who prefer face-to-face interaction with their customers. This market is held outdoors from May through September and indoors the remainder of the year.
“Our vendors offer a wide variety of seasonal produce, eggs, dairy and chicken. During the winter months, the Saturday Market slows down and primarily features baked and canned goods and soap,” explained Ernie Schierwagen, market manager and president of the Fremont Master Gardeners.
Schierwagen added they don’t directly sell beef or swine at the Saturday Market, but sales of these items are allowed if it is from one customer to another.
“We keep our expenditures low as we work in conjunction with the University of Wyoming Extension Office in Riverton and are able to use the Little Wind building at the Fremont County Fairgrounds for no charge during the winter. Our largest expense is radio advertising, which we cover through vendor fees. We also currently advertise on Facebook and are setting up a website,” Schierwagen said.
Selling at a weekly farmers market may not be a viable option for all producers. Steve Doyle quickly realized this was just one of the issues standing in the way of small producers when he returned to Riverton with his family after years serving in the U.S. Coast Guard. He had always wanted to farm, even though he had no experience.
“I started small by raising chickens and selling eggs. I got shut down because I wasn’t in compliance with the current food production laws,” Doyle said.
Next, he tried selling raw milk and chickens. Both times he met the same fate. Frustrated by his inability to make a living as an independent farmer, he and a group of rural Wyoming farmers approached the Wyoming Legislature to plead their case. Their efforts resulted in the passage of Wyoming Food Freedom Act to allow for the sale and consumption of homemade foods. The act became effective in March 2015 and changed the playing field for small food producers.
Even after amending the food laws, turning a profit for small producers remained a challenge. Seasonal, weekly markets are labor intensive and expensive. A significant amount of time is lost to actual production as they set up a stand and sell their goods, and then reverse the whole operation to head back home.
The creation of the Fremont Local Market in Riverton two years ago has greatly helped to alleviate the problem. The market is based on the retail model of consignment. Currently, over 90 local producers sell their goods at the store. A single cashier handles the sales, thereby freeing up the producers to concentrate on their wares. Instead of only getting a few hours of selling time for 10 hours of preparation and driving, the producers get 40 hours of market exposure. Doyle said this helps farmers leverage their time and yield, thereby making their farm ground more valuable.
“We have regular customers for whom the Fremont Local Market is their first stop. They understand that we have a seasonal selection of produce, and purchase as much as they can with us before they head to the big box stores,” explained Morgan Doyle, manager of the market.
“The market is open six days a week to meet the local demands and to accommodate the work schedules of our area residents,” Morgan Doyle added.
Based upon the revenue the market generated, Steve Doyle estimates last year about 1% of the amount of money spent on food stayed in Fremont County and directly benefited the local producers. He predicts that amount will continue to increase as the market gets more vendors and more shoppers realize the value of having local products available.
Another advantage of the Fremont Local Market is its location on Riverton’s main street. Steve Doyle said the other businesses downtown are seeing more pedestrian traffic to their stores as a result of the market’s position in the community.
“Establishments such as the Fremont Local Market answer a real need for the economics of a small town and those who love to work the land. What better way can a small community assert itself than through the production of food?” Steve Doyle said.
Seasonal markets
In addition to the two year-round markets, seasonal markets in Lander, Dubois, Wind River and Riverton also sell fresh produce and homemade products. Bryan Thoman serves on the board of the Riverton Wednesday Market and is a vendor at many of the markets in the area.
“Six years ago, I developed a seasoning for fish and was given a smoker. I began smoking cheese as a hobby. Two and a half years ago, I established Holy Smokes! as my full-time business. Being able to sell at the farmers markets in the area has made my venture viable,” Thoman said.
Thoman’s business has a double advantage to the local economy, since he purchases local products for his business.
The role of CWC
Central Wyoming College has taken on a supportive role in the Fremont County farmers markets. In 2021, Ethan Page was hired as a faculty of local food and agriculture to manage CWC’s Beginning Farmer Training Program and lead the Associate of Applied Science (AAS) in Regenerative Small-scale Farming.
CWC currently has a half-acre plot in Sinks Canyon for growing diversified vegetables and fruit trees. “This gives us the opportunity to experiment with different varieties and to demonstrate what can be grown in this climate,” Page said.
Once students have completed the basic crop production courses, they are eligible to have access to their own plot the following season.
“We have students of all ages in the courses. Some take the courses to increase their knowledge base, while others are actively seeking an AAS degree in agriculture,” Page said.
“We primarily sell at the Lander farmers market during the summer and endeavor to attend the Riverton and Wind River markets. Our gross sales have doubled at the Lander farmers market in the past three years,” Page added.
Page said CWC has received funding for a controlled environment agricultural facility. Plans are to increase expansion to a small greenhouse and a hydroponic shipping container farm, which is a self-contained unit with a stable environment year-round. He explained that leafy green vegetables grow well in a hydroponic garden, and would dramatically increase the availability of locally grown vegetables throughout the winter months.
In her role as community food system specialist at CWC, Melissa Hemken helps local food producers identify markets suitable for their products. This involves focused efforts to develop the infrastructure necessary for farmers and ranchers to connect with consumers.
While local farmers markets are a tremendous asset in getting food from farm to table, Hemken related a shared-use kitchen model is being developed for the local bakers and cooks who lack the personal resources to build a kitchen that is compliant with food preparation standards.
“The major start-up costs for any business are the facility and equipment. The Meadowlark Marketing Kitchens in Lander will be opening in February for use by local food artisans,” Hemken said.
Changes in the way food is grown and marketed in Fremont County can serve as a model for collaboration between producers, lawmakers and educational institutions in other communities, advocates say.
“Growth in local agriculture and food production in Fremont County has been positive. There is great potential for expansion due to a network of people in the community who have connected to support each other’s efforts,” Page said. “It is an exciting time to be a local food producer.”
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